Mechanical
Considerations
by: Chris Loynd
Disclaimer #2: I preface this section by asserting that
I am most decidedly NOT a mechanic, let alone a motorcycle mechanic. Since
there are so many kinds of bikes, my opinions offered here are vague and
broad generalities. Please, if you have any concerns, speak with your
motorcycle dealer�s service department about the winter foibles � if any �
for your particular model motorcycle. I can say that the Polar Bear Grand
Tour includes most every bike brand you ever heard of, air and water
cooled alike.
Speaking of air and water cooled engines, I saw this segment on the
History Channel. Early in the last century, when they were trying to open
up Alaska even in winter, airplanes were an obvious answer to conquer the
vast distances. First they tried conventional planes with water cooled
engines. But aviation pioneers never could get one to run reliably. So
they turned to the older, air cooled engines. If they could get those big
rotaries to turn over, they would keep running in the severest conditions.
Connecticut winters are not Alaska extreme.
Nevertheless, cold temperature does challenge many mechanisms.
Certainly you want your bike to be in top
condition. Not just because winter riding may be harder on it. It is just
a lot less fun waiting for a tow truck in twenty degree weather.
Most motorcycles run heavyweight oils. They get
pretty thick at very low temperatures. You may want to adjust your oil
weight or change to synthetic. Once you get the bike started, it will take
a surprisingly long time for the engine to get up to operating
temperature. One precaution is to make sure you go for a decently long
ride. Condensation happens naturally in winter. Over time your oil becomes
contaminated with water. A long ride will heat things up enough to boil
off the water. A short ride only exacerbates things.
Batteries lose a lot of cranking power to the
cold. A battery tender is a wonderful thing. It keeps your winter battery
at full charge, ready to go. By cycling the battery charge it keeps it
fresh and extends battery life.
But a long ride will charge your battery just
as well. Most motorcycles are not charging at idle or low RPMs. You need
to ride a while at sustained speed to recharge the battery. You also want
to make sure you do not overload the battery with too much amperage going
to electric clothing, heated seat, heated grips, driving lamps, etc.
One prospective Polar Bear, an apartment
dweller without a garage, asked a good question about his battery
freezing, sitting outside in the cold, cruel winter. A quick check of
motorcycle battery manufacturer Yusa�s web site assuaged his concerns.
Their product manual explained that a fully charged battery can be stored
at sub-zero temperatures with no concerns. It takes minus 75 degrees F to
freeze electrolytes in a charged battery. However battery discharge strips
electrolytes from a battery�s solution, leaving more water by percentage.
A discharged battery�s electrolyte begins to ice at just 27 degrees F.
An alternative for non-garage owners is to
bring the battery inside. If it is easy to access and disconnect, you can
then keep your battery on a tender inside your warm apartment. It will
have more cranking power than my motorcycle battery on its tender in an
unheated garage.
Tires can lose pressure more easily in cold
than warm weather. Motorcycle tires can lose upwards of five psi per day
in colder months, according to a Harley-Davidson article. So check tire
pressure before every ride. Also be careful riding
on cold tires. In winter it can take as long as 20 minutes for your tires
to warm to their ideal level of stickiness, depending upon your riding
speed. So don�t throw the bike into any corners right out of the driveway.
I understand those of you with chain-driven
bikes may have some additional winter concerns. Certainly you want to keep
up with maintenance. Winter salt and sand do not contribute to the
effectiveness of your chain lube.